10 Fall Jobs to Get Your Michigan Home Ready for Winter

The jobs that get your Michigan home ready for winter are easiest in October, before the ground freezes and heating contractors get busy.

These ten come from Michigan's own winter guidance, the state insurance department and the State Fire Marshal. Each one says what a finished job looks like and the shortcut that costs money later.

The ten fall jobs, in short:

1. Shut off and drain outdoor faucets
2. Clear gutters and downspouts
3. Stop ice dams in the attic
4. Test the sump pump and its backup
5. Service the furnace and change the filter
6. Test smoke and carbon monoxide alarms
7. Caulk and weatherstrip the gaps
8. Plan safe generator use
9. Protect pipes before you travel
10. Review your homeowners insurance

1. When should I shut off and drain my outdoor faucets in Michigan?

Outdoor faucets and garden hoses should be drained before the first hard freeze, which in Southeast Michigan usually means October. The National Weather Service office for Detroit and Pontiac notes that October is the month the growing season ends across the region. Water left in a hose or faucet line can freeze, expand and crack the pipe inside the wall.

To winterize outdoor faucets, disconnect, drain and store the hoses, close the indoor shutoff valve for each outside faucet, then open the outside faucet so trapped water drains out. Both Michigan's MIReady program and the American Red Cross describe that sequence. Drain sprinkler lines per the maker's directions.

Leaving a hose attached for one more wash is the habit to break. The hose holds water against the faucet, and a split pipe inside the wall can stay hidden until spring, when the first use sends water into the basement.

2. Why should I clean my gutters before winter in Michigan?

Clean gutters and downspouts let melting roof snow drain away instead of refreezing at the roof edge. Michigan's MIReady guidance lists clearing them of leaves and debris as a first defense against ice dams, and the state's Department of Insurance and Financial Services gives the same advice.

Do the job after most of the leaves are down, not in early September. Run a hose into each gutter and watch where the water goes. It should flow freely and leave the downspout well away from the foundation. MIReady also suggests clearing the storm drain at your curb.

Cleaning gutters once in September and calling it done is the common miss. Oaks and maples drop leaves for weeks, and a gutter that refills before the first snow does little against an ice dam. Ladder work is a real fall risk, so hiring it out is a fair call.

3. What actually stops ice dams on a Michigan roof?

Ice dams start in the attic, not the gutter. Warm air from the house leaks into the attic, melts roof snow, and the water refreezes at the cold eaves. Michigan's MIReady guidance calls for attic insulation of at least R-30, with R-38 preferable in northern climates, and clear airflow from the soffit vents out through the roof vents.

A good fall check is a look in the attic with a flashlight. Insulation should be even, soffit vents clear, and gaps around light fixtures, the chimney and the attic hatch sealed. After big storms, MIReady recommends a roof rake used from the ground.

Relying on heat cable alone, with no attic work, treats the symptom and skips the cause MIReady names: warm air reaching the attic. Chipping at ice with a hammer is worse, because it can tear shingles and start the leak you meant to stop.

4. How do I test my sump pump before winter?

A sump pump should be tested before the freeze and thaw season, not after water shows up. NDSU Extension advises pouring water into the pit until the float starts the pump, then confirming it cycles on and off at least twice. The outside discharge pipe should be clear and carry water away from the house.

A good test ends with the pump starting on its own, emptying the pit and shutting off cleanly. Outside, the discharge line should not be crushed, clogged or aimed at the foundation. If the basement is finished, price a battery backup pump and keep its battery maintained.

Assuming a quiet pump works is the risk. Most owners never hear it run until the day it fails. Michigan's insurance department has warned that a typical policy does not cover sump overflow damage without a special endorsement, so the cleanup can land on you.

5. When should I get my furnace serviced, and how often should I change the filter?

Fall is the time to service a furnace, before heating contractors get busy. ENERGY STAR advises checking the heating system in the fall and inspecting, cleaning or changing air filters once a month. A tune-up covers gas connections, gas pressure, burner combustion and the heat exchanger, and faulty gas connections are a fire hazard.

A good visit ends with a written report naming what was tested, not just a sticker. Ask whether the heat exchanger and venting were checked, and keep spare filters in your furnace's size. Keep the receipt too: Michigan's Seller Disclosure Statement asks for the heating system's type and age.

A technician who quotes a full replacement on the first visit, without showing the failed part or a test reading, is worth a second opinion. An older furnace is not automatically a failing one. A written finding separates a real problem from a sales pitch.

6. Do my smoke and carbon monoxide alarms need attention before winter?

Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms need a check before the furnace and fireplace start running daily. Michigan's State Fire Marshal advises testing smoke alarms monthly, replacing them every 10 years, and placing them on every level, inside every bedroom and outside sleeping areas. Carbon monoxide alarms go on each level and are usually replaced every five to seven years.

A good check takes a few minutes per floor. Press the test button on every unit, read the date printed on the back, and replace any alarm past its age. The State Fire Marshal ties this job to the fall time change.

An alarm with its battery pulled because it chirped during cooking is the red flag. So is one carbon monoxide alarm by the furnace and none near the bedrooms, where people sleep through a slow buildup. MIReady says battery-operated CO detectors belong near every sleeping area.

7. Where should I caulk and weatherstrip before winter?

Caulk and weatherstripping close the gaps where cold air gets in and heat gets out. Michigan's MIReady guidance lists both as part of preparing a home for winter power outages, because a tight house holds its heat longer when the furnace stops. Gaps near pipes matter most, since cold air there is what freezes them.

Walk the outside on a dry fall day. Check window and door trim, where siding meets the foundation, and around dryer vents, wiring and pipe openings, the spots MIReady names. Inside, close each exterior door on a strip of paper. If it slides out with no drag, replace the weatherstripping.

Caulking over rot only hides it. If the wood gives under a screwdriver, repair it first, because a buyer's inspector will find it later. Sealing attic vents shut to stop drafts is the other mistake, since attic airflow helps keep ice dams in check.

8. Is it safe to run a generator during a Michigan power outage?

A portable generator is safe only outdoors, away from doors, windows and vents. Michigan's MIReady guidance says never to run one in a home, garage, basement or crawl space, even with ventilation, because of carbon monoxide. Never plug one into a wall outlet either, since feeding power back into the lines endangers utility workers.

Make the plan in the fall. Pick the outdoor spot in advance. Buy a heavy-duty outdoor-rated cord with all three prongs, and store fuel outside living areas in labeled containers that are not glass. To run the furnace or sump pump, MIReady says to have a qualified electrician install proper equipment, such as a transfer switch.

Running the generator inside an open garage door is exactly what MIReady rules out, ventilation or not. So is a homemade cord into a dryer outlet. If the plan depends on either one, call an electrician before the first storm.

9. How do I keep my pipes from freezing if I travel this winter?

Pipes freeze fastest in unheated spaces and in homes left cold while the owner is away. Michigan's MIReady guidance says to keep the thermostat at 55 degrees or higher while you are gone, have someone check the house daily, and insulate pipes in crawl spaces and attics. An eighth-inch crack can leak up to 250 gallons a day.

Before a trip, find the main water shutoff, make sure it turns, and tag it so a neighbor can find it. Insulate any pipe on an outside wall or in the garage. For a long absence, MIReady suggests shutting off and draining the water system, which also disables any fire sprinkler system.

Turning the heat way down while you are gone is the costly shortcut. A few weeks of lower gas bills are small next to a ceiling, a floor and furniture soaked by a burst line that nobody found for days.

10. What should I check on my homeowners insurance before winter?

A Michigan homeowners policy typically covers sudden damage from burst pipes, ice dams or heavy snow, but not flooding. The state's Department of Insurance and Financial Services says standard policies exclude flood damage, and federal flood insurance typically takes 30 days to start. That wait is why fall is the time to ask.

Note your deductible and whether ice, snow and burst pipes are covered, and ask whether a sewer or sump backup endorsement is on the policy. Owners in Rochester, Rochester Hills and Oakland Township, where The Delia Group works, should keep repair receipts too. Michigan's Seller Disclosure Statement asks about roof leaks and basement water.

Calling basement water a flood when you report it can cost you. The state insurance department notes that a sewer backup or failing sump pump may be covered when flood damage would not be. Describe what happened and let the adjuster classify it.

When to Do Each Fall Job

Job	Best timing	Done when
Outdoor faucets	Before the first hard freeze	Hoses off, inside valves closed
Gutters	After most leaves fall	Water runs clear of the foundation
Attic and ice dams	Any dry fall day	Insulation even, vents open
Sump pump	Before the freeze and thaw season	Pump cycles on and off twice
Furnace	Early fall	Written service report in hand
Alarms	At the fall time change	Every unit tested and in date
Caulk and weatherstrip	A dry day above freezing	No drafts at doors or pipes
Generator plan	Before the first storm	Outdoor spot and cord ready
Pipes before travel	Before any winter trip	Shutoff found, heat set
Insurance review	Fall, before storms	Deductible and endorsements known

A timing guide for the ten jobs, drawn from Michigan MIReady, DIFS, State Fire Marshal and ENERGY STAR guidance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the coldest you should let your house get in the winter?

For the pipes, most guidance draws the line at 55 degrees, and Michigan's insurance department advises keeping the heat above that. During very cold weather, the American Red Cross also advises keeping the thermostat at the same setting day and night rather than dropping it overnight. Opening the cabinet doors under sinks on outside walls lets warm air reach those pipes.

Do you let hot or cold water drip to keep pipes from freezing?

Cold. The American Red Cross advises letting cold water drip from a faucet served by exposed pipes during very cold weather, because moving water is harder to freeze. It is a stopgap for a cold snap, not a fix for a pipe that needs insulation.

What can I put on my pipes to keep them from freezing?

Pipe insulation is the first choice for pipes in crawl spaces, attics and along outside walls. Michigan's MIReady guidance also lists heat tape or heat cables with a thermostat. Use only products approved by an independent testing group such as Underwriters Laboratories, and follow the maker's directions closely.

What are some important homeowners checklists for winter?

Beyond the house itself, Michigan's MIReady program recommends a home emergency kit. It lists at least three gallons of water per person, a three-day supply of food that will not spoil, needed medications, a battery-powered or hand-crank radio, a flashlight with extra batteries and a first aid kit. Pack bedding, warm clothes and copies of important documents too.

Talk to The Delia Group before a spring sale

The Delia Group is a Rochester, Michigan real estate team working with buyers and sellers in Rochester, Rochester Hills, Oakland Township and across Oakland County. Owners thinking about a spring listing can talk through which winter repairs to finish first. Homeowners comparing Rochester realtors or the top realtors in Rochester can start there.

This article is general information for Michigan homeowners, not legal, tax or insurance advice. Coverage for ice, sump backup and flood damage varies by policy and insurer. Confirm your own situation with your insurance agent, a real estate attorney or a tax professional.